Tuscan Grill

This past Friday night, Key Dear's friend B invited her to the Tuscan Grill to taste the new menu. She has a new chef, Brian Schermer, and the food is wonderful.

We started at the bar with tapas spreads: basil pesto, tomato pesto and herbed goat cheese on toasted French bread slices. All were good, but the herbed goat cheese was the hit. Bartender Sean serves up a variety of drinks, ranging from the typical to some interesting spins on newer drinks, like blueberry martinis made with fresh blueberries. He is magic with Canton Ginger liqueur. Tuscan makes their own Sangria and it is very good, don't miss it.

One of the specials was goat-cheese filled ravioli with a [garlic] cream sauce. If this dish is any indication what the chef's specials will be like, we'll be happy to try them all. We had the grilled asparagus, served with a fried egg and fresh Parmesan cheese. The asparagus was crispy with a distinct, but not overpowering, wood flavor. Tuscan's breads are all house made and served with a very fine olive oil. You'll be tempted to fill up on bread, but as good as it is, save room for what is to come.

Next we tried two risotto dishes. The Risotto Verdura with eggplant, onions, tomato and oregano was fine, if rather average. The Risotto Fragola with roasted pork-loin, shallots, strawberries and a balsamic reduction was a pleasant surprise, an unexpected combination of flavors and quite tasty.

We had five different entrees. The veal was stuffed with the house made mozzarella, barely pink in the middle and well matched with braised artichokes. Lamb chops were served with a tomato-olive pesto. The olive flavor was robust and the chops were perfectly cooked, pink and flavorful. Pollo Arrosto, a wood-fire roasted organic chicken half rubbed with blood orange, rosemary and thyme, was served with fresh spring vegetables and a white wine sauce. The chicken was moist and tender, with a hint of wood flavor.

The table favorites were the skewered wood-grilled tenderloin tips and the poached salmon. The tenderloin tips were tender enough to cut with a fork, served with morel mushrooms, Marsala cream sauce, and Parmesan polenta. The poached salmon, in a saffron, fennel and tomato nage and served with small roasted red potatoes, is a dish not to be missed. I could have this for dessert.

Speaking of desserts, we were so full we almost passed on dessert. Happily, we managed to try the Key Lime pie and an unbelievable chocolate something. The Key Lime dessert was not overly limey and the torte crust was almost a shortbread. The chocolate was heavenly; warm and gooey in the middle with a chocolate cake surround, and really chocolaty, not sugary like so many chocolate desserts.

The kitchen is open to the dining area and you can see Chef Brian, in his red coat, and the kitchen staff at all times. Service is excellent, attentive without being obsequious. The wine list has a good variety, but won't overwhelm you with too many choices. Make reservations if you plan to go on a Friday, Saturday or Sunday night.